Miradouro das Portas do Sol

Portas do Sol is the widest of the viewpoints above Alfama and the easiest to reach without climbing: Tram 28E and 12E stop at Largo Portas do Sol, and taxis and tuk-tuks drop passengers in the square. On foot from the terminal it is about 500 m and 10 minutes, uphill on stairs. Miradouro de Santa Luzia is a minute or two along the same street, so see both together. The view looks east and down over Alfama's rooftops to the river, with the white dome of the Panteão Nacional and the twin towers of São Vicente de Fora on the left and the port area below. Picking out the terminal helps you plan the walk back. In the square stands a statue of São Vicente, Lisbon's patron saint, holding a boat with two ravens, the emblem on the city's coat of arms. Beside it, the Palácio Azurara houses the Museu de Artes Decorativas Portuguesas, run by the Ricardo Espírito Santo Silva Foundation: a paid museum of Portuguese furniture and decorative arts if you want something indoors. A café terrace overlooks the viewpoint; prices reflect the location. If time is short, spend five minutes at the railing, then walk down into Alfama instead of waiting for a tram. Between about 10:00 and 15:00 on busy ship days, this square is where groups gather and Tram 28E arrives full, and tuk-tuk drivers tout for castle rides, so agree a price first. Early morning is noticeably calmer. The viewpoint is free and open at all hours. The historic tile panels often credited to this spot, showing Terreiro do Paço before 1755 and the 1147 conquest, are actually at Santa Luzia next door.